Sun and Surf

 Sun and Surf
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For a few years, in the late ought's, (2006-2009) one of my favorite surfing spots was
Carolina Beach and Cape Fear 
The serenity and relaxed atmosphere inspired me to write a series of essays called
"Sol y Solidad" (I don't speak Spanish very well, but I like that title)

When I wasn't in the water, struggling in partial denial with that 6' tri-fin thruster,
(I should have had a 6'5" single flatty, but oh well) I was mostly hammered out the door sideways.
I have the feeling that I may have been in fracas or scrape or two. Some possible 311's as well.
I was coming off of two rough break-ups back to back, and that was my getaway spot.
The sun, sand, surf and seafood were a pretty good therapist, but ultimately I had to get right;
"level on the inside" as it were. Brovs in the NorthEast call it "being even".
Water ALWAYS finds its level. It's as simple as that.




Some of my other faves during that time were 
Cherry Grove, Apache, (SC) Tybee Island, (GA) and Cocoa Beach (FL)







A few of my favorite Surfing Sistah Girls
 
Imani WilmotDominique Miller



The Science of Surf Therapy
Surf therapy scientifically combines physical activity, nature immersion, social connection, and "forced" mindfulness to improve mental health by reducing stress, anxiety, and depression through physiological and psychological mechanisms like vagus nerve stimulation and the "blue mind" effect. This holistic approach offers a powerful, holistic experience where participants learn resilience and empowerment by confronting challenges and achieving mastery in a supportive, non-judgmental environment.




Read More about Surf Therapy Here




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